Day 43: Hawes – Tan Hill Inn

Thursday, 01/06/2017
Distance: 30,1 km (18,7 mi) for a total of 1179,1 km (732,7 mi)
Ascent (ca.): 1100 m (3610 ft)

Weather: Cloudy with sunny spells and windy

A bit later than I would have liked to but of course Geoff and I needed some time to bid our goodbyes. I retraced my steps to Hawes and picked up the PW towards Hardraw. There I allowed myself the short detour to Hardraw Fall, the highest one-step waterfall in Britain (excluding underground ones) with a height of 30 m.

Coming back from the waterfall I met Peg and John again and we tackled the way up to Great Shunner Fell together. The viewpoint not only offered brilliant views in all directions but also shelter against the wind so that we spent some time there.

The way down allowed for good progress at first being made up of slab stones except for some minor stretches. Only the last section outside the access land to Thwaite was stony, something which always slows me down as I walk particularly cautious on this kind of ground – bad experiences. The views were still to admire but not at the same time as placing my feet.

Thwaite kindly greeted me with an open tearoom which I entered immediately and treated myself to a cream tea. While still enjoying my tea Peg and John, who I had left behind on the descent came in. When I set off again we said our final goodbyes and wished us luck on our ways as they were staying in Keld tonight which I intended to pass by. It’s a bit sad to know that fellow walkers you got to know and met over a couple of days will disappear from your sight but I hope they find their way to this blog.

The path out of Thwaite started with a steep ascent before levelling. Unfortunately, this relatively level section along North Gang Scar was rather rocky but I still made good time to the footbridge over the river Swale and to Catrake Force – not as impressive as Hardraw Force in the morning but still very nice.

After walking up some fields I reached Black Moor where I only came across sheep so it felt really remote. From Stonesdale Moor I made it to Tan Hill and first view of the inn of the same name.

Having pitched my tent at the inn’s rear I’m now rewarding myself with a beer and listening to the live acoustic session – a good close of the day.


4 thoughts on “Day 43: Hawes – Tan Hill Inn

  1. Live music:what a great way to finish the day. “cautious on this kind of ground – bad experiences.”- oh, me too. Last summer I began to jog on a level stretch of stony ground – can it be both level and stony? Yes, I think you’ll understand that. So, being a bit behind schedule I picked up my feet and jogged a bit and in about 4 strides went flying, hitting my face on the gritty ground. Blood was dripping from where my teeth banged into the inside of my face and I was a good hour’s walk from the car. My face was swollen and a real sight for 2 weeks. IDIOT. I think I suffered as much from the embarrassment as the actual injury.


    • I never tried to jog on this kind of ground, but I managed to slide down and painfully twisting my ankle more than once – even in boots, so much for the promised ankle support in them.


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