Day 11: Elmscott – Horn’s Cross

Sunday, 30/04/2017
Distance: 30,5 km (19 mi) for a total of 281,2 km (174,8 mi)
Ascent (ca.): 630 m  (2070 ft)

Weather: Rain in different intensities

As the weather forecast wasn’t promising and proved true and given my experiences with the coast path so far, I was sure I didn’t want to walk it in wind and being slippery because of rain. So an inland route mainly on country lanes it would be.

After I left the youth hostel in Elmscott I walked via Stoke to Hartland hoping to find a tea room already open. I wasn’t lucky with that, but in the village shop I entered to buy at least some chocolate to see me through the day another customer hearing my question to the shop lady offered me a tea or coffee in the inn at the next corner where he was the chef. He was inconsolable that he was only able to offer me some fruit buns to accompany the tea, but what can be better than freshly toasted fruit buns with butter and jam when you just emerged from the rain?

Refreshed I trudged along in the rain with the hope of improving weather as the sky was only light grey instead of dark grey. Soon I had to follow the A39 for a short stretch but left it to head into Clovelly where I had a nice rest in a tea room. I was told so before and it’s true that Clovelly is a charming little village, I can imagine it attracts a lot of visitors and rightly so.

When I left Clovelly even a few rays of sunshine made it through the clouds but this wasn’t going to last. When I finally started looking for a place to spend the night I was confronted with all accommodation booked up because of the bank holiday weekend. I wasn’t eager to wild pitch my tent in the pouring rain in some farmer’s field so I gladly accepted a ride to Bideford where I was able to secure what must have been the last room. Tomorrow I will of course return to the place where I left my track today to proceed.


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