Day 3: Gwithian – St Agnes

Saturday, 22/04/2017
Distance: 24,3 km (15,1 mi) for a total of 90,5 km (56,2 mi)
Ascent (ca.): 840 m  (2760 ft)

Weather: Overcast in the morning, sunny spells in the afternoon

Picked up the coast path again in much more walking-friendly weather. The way to Portreath was comparatively easy-going in the beginning and allowed good progress. One cove attracted my attention for some time because of the number of seals. Unfortunately,  they were too far away for a photo but I could watch them clearly with my binoculars.

But, of course, it couldn’t stay that easy and it took some ups and downs to get to Portreath for my well-earned lunch. By that time I didn’t know that the worst part of the day was lying ahead of me. A lot of ups and downs was to be dealt with and by the time I finally reached Porthtowan it was much later than I had hoped for.

For those who haven’t been to this part of the world and who might wonder what would make a coastal path so strenuous, try to imagine the following: two points 80 m apart. To cover these 80 m requires to get down from the cliff height at about 75 m, crossing the little stream at the bottom and regaining the former height immediately. In many places stairs have been built which might sound like making it easier to get up and down. On the contrary! More often than not the steps are too high. Placing your foot on one means that it is knee-high now. From this position you have to heave yourself and your pack up. Add to this the temperature and a not-fully-functional knee and you’ll get the general idea.

Anyway, I finally got the campsite I was looking for and prepared for another dry but cold night. The place wasn’t overly sheltered against the wind but the tent wasn’t impressed by it. So this is a good place to introduce my second walking companion, Sonya.

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