Distance: 34 km (21 mi) *
Ascent (ca.): 1270 m (4170ft) *
# of geocaches logged: 9
Weather: Misty in the morning, lots of sunshine during the day (Met Office had promised a cloudy day throughout, wondering what I’ll get when they promise sunshine – most likely torrential rain all day)
Where to start? I left the youth hostel for the morning bus to Land’s End. I was there well before any tourist buses would arrive but even like that I can imagine what it’ll be like at other times and I’m glad, I hadn’t to cope with it. I only made sure that the ceremonial work was completed, so I got my stamp to confirm my start, signed the book and took a photo at the famous signpost which gives me the possibility to introduce one of my companions on this trip. This is Matt who does the hard work of carrying the gear. I heard him mumbling something like “abuse” and “never being in the same good shape again” (I guess that means clean).
As expected route finding wasn’t an issue, at least since I’ve got used to the tiny marker stones near the ground. The weather forecast got it quite wrong, at 9:30 I was already in shirtsleeves, half an hour later I opened the zippers at the thighs and another hour later I unzipped my trousers.
The views would have been stunning in any case but the weather surely made them even more impressing. I lost a lot of time on the way because I simply forgot to walk while admiring the landscape.
It was absolutely amazing: the sea in all shades of blue and turquoise, the rocky landscape, the clear sky and the warm temperatures, all this reminded me very much of Sardinia. It really could have been the Mediterranean.
I stopped several times along the way to chat with people, all very friendly and extremly impressed by my plans. By now I have been asked at least three times if I’m walking for charity which leads me to two conclusions:
1. I could perhaps collect a nice sum if I’d try to.
2. The thought of just walking for myself and for the sake of it seems to be a bit irritating to people.
I chose Zennor as end point mainly for two reasons. There aren’t many possibilities for camping between there and Land’s End and the pitch directory of the Backpackers Club at least hinted at a “half wild” possibility in the vicinity. And the local pub, “The Tinners Arms” was recommend to me.
Unfortunately, I lost a lot of time because of the geocaches I looked for and for all the “Wow!” worthy views and photos to be taken. As I wasn’t too sure about the site in the pitch directory I decided to ask at the pub if they know any place to pitch my tent. I was advised to knock at a certain farm a bit up the road. This was a good decision, the farmer told me he accomodated another LEJOGer the night before in one of his fields. But when I finally had my tent pitched and returned to the pub the kitchen was already closed. So I only got a beer and heard the first couple of folk songs some locals started to perform.
(* GPSr devices aren’t good at recording heights and the recorded distances depend very much on consequently disabling logging tracks when taking a rest, both due to an effect called rippling. I round the numbers so they shouldn’t be taken as overly precise, especially as they contain detours, geoaching related data etc. I will clean the tracks from these effects when I’m back.)